Sanghar-Chotiari

 

Nothing else excites me more than travelling; I absolutely adore travelling especially road trips . Last year I got the chance to visit Sanghar. Sanghar is one of the largest districts of Sindh. Roughly about 3-4 hours drive time from Karachi.

 

A three-day training on Grassroots Comics as a Teaching-Learning Tool and Environmental Education for Government School Teachers’ was organized with Indus for All Programme, WWF - Pakistan from 26 -28 October, 2010 at Chotiari, Sanghar. I was accompanied by Nida shams and Muhammad Zafar Khan, Manager Communication and Awareness Raising of the Indus for All Programme.

 

As we passed the smooth roads, rural cultural change met the eyes. Women working in fields dressed up in bright blues, orange and yellow ghagra cholis with traditional bangles reaching up to the elbows. People of Sanghar still travel in tanga (horse carts) but the culture has changed a lot with the emerging trend of Quinchi.

 

My main destination in Sangar was Chotiari. It is among the 200 unique sites of world. Chotiari is a reservoir with rich biodiversity containing terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems of deep water, shallow marshes, wetland, agricultural land, migratory birds and sand dunes.

 

Our workshop was held at the WWF information centre which was newly built keeping in mind the luxury of the urban areas and combining it with the rural aesthetics. It was an amazing place build on the idea of local clay huts. Bamboo chick art ceiling with embroidery work by local women on community centre. Elements of local environment and traditions were highlighted. Information centre had a tuck shop, educational exhibit room, guest room, conference room, a beautiful lawn/sitting area and an impressive solar panel unit.

 

Though I didn’t get to explore the streets of Sanghar due to my tough schedule, the places I visited had a wonderful view and beauty to be admired. Here are a few clicks from the trip.

 

Bullfalo bathing in water

Chotiari Conservation and Information Centre-Sanghar district

Backside view of information centre

Sunset at Chotiari

In search for dinner

 

View from inside of information centre

Handmade bamboo chick ceiling

solar panels

one of the sessions I conducted

Final posters exhibition

 

Garden

 

Group photo with participants

Goats crossing the road

 

Sunset as we left for home

 

Read more about Chotiari

CLASSIC CRAZE

“I used to take my aunt for shopping just so that I could drive their cars, in return I used to get chocolate” recalls Sikander Ali khan as he passes by his neatly lined up, shinning classical cars. At the age of 85 he is still as passionate about cars as he was seven decades ago.

“My grandfather used to own a Rover 1920 model that was one of its kinds, previously driven by the governor of Bombay” narrates Sikander Ali, the idea of having, one of a kind, car fascinated him and that’s where his passion for cars arose, today he owns seven classic cars and 10 motorcycles.

At the age of 16, Sikander Ali bought his first 125cc motorcycle for Rs 1600 on monthly instalments of Rs50 then later on in 1947 bought his first Fiat car for Rs 600 from a friend. For his age Sikander Ali has an exceptional memory. He remembers every single detail of each car he has ever driven, even the places he bought them from, their models or their cost.

In this porch, rests a shining spotless golden 500-B Fiat Topolino, half a century old, which has a history of its own. It was previously owned by sikander’s sister, until 1967, when it was presented to her nephew, Masoor, who was four years of age that time. It was of no use for him and suggestions were made to sell it and buy toys for him instead. It was merely junk which was worth nothing. If it wasn’t for Mr Sikander’s reluctance it would have been sold for Rs 350 to a ‘kabari’. A lot of effort and money was spent to bring the Fiat back to life. It still has its original indicators and dash board with new build in TV stereo, knight rider signals and many other modern gadgets. Topolino has won the oldest car prize five times in the 80s. The half a century old Fiat unbelievably has its original Speedo meter and fuel tank signals, in working conditions.

” my mechanics know me and they know my cars”, claimed Sikander, rather than taking the cars to a garage he prefers calling the mechanics home. He loves his cars and doesn’t hire anyone to look after them; in fact he prefers cleaning and polishing them himself.

As one walks from the porch to the backyard, nuts and bolts can be seen lying around with the other tools used to fix his vehicles. From the end of the corridor, one can clearly view his motorcycles lined up, covered with sheets. Vesta 125cc, Zymco 70cc, Tiger scoter 49cc, Honda 200cc, Scoter Chopper175cc and Eagle Star (electric bike) 50 watts, are a few amongst his 10 bikes.

Sikander Ali with his grandson

 

He finds pleasure in showing off his cars. Every Sunday Sikander visits the Sunday Car Bazaar on their special request,”They appreciate me and ask me to bring my cars to the show“, he claims that they add value to the place and don’t even charge me. For them it’s an advertising that will encourage more people to bring their antiques. “My sons have always encouraged me and help me maintain my cars.” Sikander Ali has been an active member of Vintage and Classic Car Club of Pakistan and participated in a few more car shows. “Whenever there are car shows they call me but it’s a fatigue taking cars there, I am old now and I get tired.”

Sikander Ali was born in Hyderbadh Dhankan India, adopted as an infant and bought up by his grandmother. “When people ask me about my qualification I tell them I went to Aligarh University India. I don’t tell them I flunked in my intermediate exams.” he confessed with a smile. Later on, he migrated to Pakistan in search of work and has struggled a lot in his life to reach where he is today.

 

LIVING OFF COIR

In the arena full of vivid flower stalls Muhammad Mubeen a man in his late 60’s, stood out, busy in selling what he calls “coconut sticks” at the 61^st flower show at Seaview.

A middle height, fair build man dressed up in fading white shalwar kameez, sleeves folded up to elbow and head covered with Taqiyah (short rounded cap) with white hair visible from parts of it. He had wheatish complexion with a white long beard, wrinkles on his face and slumped shoulders clearly spoke his age.

He sells coconut sticks for his living. Stack of coir pipes were arranged at his stall in a manner to provide him shade from the blazing sun. Coconut sticks or Coir pole is a plant support made from grey PVC pipes warped with coconut coir.

“Coconut coir is imported from Sri Lanka, I buy 4 tons of it from Bolton Market and 10 feet PVC pipes are cut into 3 pieces in order to get the desired length, coconut coir is then twisted around the pipes and secured with thread”, explained Muhammad Mubeen in his deep shaky voice, when asked how he creates them.

“I am selling coconut stick (coir pole) for 2 years now. Previously I worked as a plumber but due to my leg injury I can’t walk much therefore had to quit because pain in my joints troubles me. Now I make coir poles with my hands for my living”, He responded showing his trembling hands.

“There are no guarantees in this work sometimes you sell good and at times you sell nothing at all “,said Muhammad Mubeen as he sold coir pipes to a customer.” I am working to make ends meet as I have to support my family” he added.

Despite all the hindrances in his life he remains strong-willed and pious person, as can be judged by his calm demeanor and tone “I try my best and trust God with the rest. He makes better plans”, he asserted. One could clearly see determination in his pale eyes surrounded by the wrinkles as he spoke.

 

Regardless of his age Mubeen is still working, not only for livelihood but to keep himself busy, to take his mind off the pains and aches.”Making coir pipes and baskets is not an easy job, it requires effort and time. My palm and hands often pain with all the twisting I do”, he said.

Coir pipes ranges from Rs50 to Rs250 depending upon their sizes and the baskets for Rs60 minimum. Mubeen owns a small shop in Manzul Colony named “Al-maki Coconut Stick” where he makes coir pipes and supplies them to a number of nurseries including the nursery in Karachi University.

As Okakura Kakuzo says, the art of life lies in a constant readjustment to our surroundings and Muhammad Mubeen lays down a perfect example of it.